Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a global network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city is no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently defined its heart: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their younger generation do not want to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to learn these narratives and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
